Day 4-6: Kruger的自駕只是開胃菜，接下來才是大餐--我們去私人的動物保護區，住在Sausage Tree Safari Camp營地三晚，食宿全包，嚮導帶著一天早晚兩次game drive。真是畢生難忘的超棒的體驗。特別幸運，每個drive都看到獅子和leopard，有時候還看到兩群獅子。最後一天大家說想看犀牛，導遊追了一個半小時，真追到了，黑犀牛和白犀牛都看到飽。
草原的清晨
（弟弟拍的）與獅子的四目相對
來自獵豹的凝視
奔向長頸鹿群的雄獅。
溫柔的日落
Day 7:最後一次的game drive，Safari後，我們飛到Port Elizabeth（又名Gqeberha），宿Port Elizabeth民宿。
Day 8: 開啟Garden Route自駕遊。第一站Tsitsikamma 國家公園，住公園旁小木屋。
小朋友第一次玩ziplining
Day 9-10: Garden Route第二站 Plettenberg Bay, 住兩晚馬場莊園小木屋。 去Robert Nature Reserve健行。
還去了大象保護區
Day 11: 往內陸Oudtshoorn。探訪鴕鳥農莊，特別好玩兒。宿農莊。
Day 12: 酒鄉Stellenbosch，住酒莊。
Day 13-16: Cape Town，住airbnb公寓4晚。 南非最美的城市Cape Town。坐talbe mountain纜車上山，山頂風光無限。
说起你们的快闪 Istanbul, 我们更瘋狂。第一次玩完南非之后，我们在一天之内 飞了这个行程 - Cape Town 飞 约堡，约堡飞多哈，(卡塔尔航空）多哈飞伊斯坦堡，伊斯坦堡飞 Adana (土耳其航空） Cape Town to Jo'burg and Istanbul to Adana 是独立票 所以要預足时间在 Cape Town 走，结果在约堡望眼欲穿的等 Qatar 开始了check in. 只有 check in 了才能进禁区，lounges 全都是在禁区内。六時從 Cape Town 酒店去机场，晚上七时在 Adana 机场取車。 （十天土耳其自駕）從未在一天中经过这么多机塲！
在 Private Reserve 有个好处，因为 owners 会在 Reserves 里面经常性地放一些动物界food chain 里的被猎食的目标 就是令猛獸们容易猎食。久而久之，猛獸们就会來多了，你们遊客 game drive 时見到 Big Five in a short period 的机会比在國家公园里高很多。國家公园是纯粹靠运气。Which approach more authentic 就見仁見智了。
量子是撿到了。我们在 2015，2016 和 2017 都去了南非。那时 在 Sabre River 附近几个 Private Reaerve 差不多要 USD400 to 500 per person per day. 疫情提供了很多旅行 Bargains.
你朋友遇上象群的事我们遇上两次。一次是下午二三十头一大群從路的一边过去另一边。我们的 Toyota Corolla排在 在車串第一位。 有一头成年雄象 离我们的小車子不足二尺 慢悠悠地走过。我的相机根本不能拍到牠的全身。先生則是担心牠会一个轉身趴在我们的車头蓋上，如果这个发生 很大可能是車毁人伤。
use the finger on the iPad is not slow. The main issue is iPad often does not recognize certain words, that I could never make it come up the first try. Words (in Chinese), like restaurant, from, good, etc It always gives me something else, "good" often becomes daugher and son, 2 Chinese words...
Right now I am on an ancient desktop, no touch screen therefore the quickest way is to type English!
Really no big deal. Many many have done that. Our 3rd trip
to Kruger started from Durban. Went thru KwaZulu-Natal, an area probably hardly any independent western tourist ever drives thru. Were stopped by police twice, including one came out from no where (his car was parked several tens of yards away under tree shades). My husband had the guts to ask the police back, "How would I know you are police?!" The police then pointed to his car that was hidden away. As soon as they saw our US passports and Avis rental car contract, he said, "Oh, Avis. OK, you can go now. Have a good trip."
We went thru many small towns, including one town we stayed overnight at a BnB at the outskirt of the town. Plenty of the local travellers who seemed to be of better economic sociostatus used the same BnB. We have never felt unsafe in our South Africa trips, and we went to South Africa 3 years in a row.
If not for the time-consuming border crossing, we would have crossed Swaziland to get to Kruger. Swaziland has 3 of its own national parks that were administered by the South Africa NP system, and our Annual Pass could be used there. However the border crossing based on others who had done it, was extremely unpredictable when it came to the time-consumed. At the end we gave up that idea, took a circumvent approach of its border, then headed to Kruger. Hence the need to spend a night in a Bnb of a small town.
I think a lot of the police harrassments seem to happen near Jo'burg, and seem to only reported by tourists from Mainland China. No idea why so. But we had multiple encounters with South Africa police, including planted roadside check points. Each time nobody gave us any hard time, they just looked at the passports and driver license, sometimes took a peek on the rental car contract but not really read it - once they saw the Avis logo, they seemed to be satisfied.
All 警车 encounters were in KwaZulu-Natal. Yes Swaziland
changed its name. I forgot what it is called now.
In KwaZulu-Natal, there is very few 高速. Even the "national routes" can be very narrow and look like farm roads. Actually they ARE farm / lumber production roads that go thru various plantations and lumber lands. More than once my husband questioned me, "You sure we should take this road? It looks so narrow, does not look like a major route at all." After a few times he realized those roads are primarily built for economic activities, NOT for tourist driving! LOL.
you dont quarrel with officials, even in the good ole US!
Anyone has an oz of brain, should know you never argue with officials / border control / custom officers... This is the same everywhere, incl in USA. You do not want to give them any excuse to make your life difficult!
All our 3 trips to South Africa used JNB as entry / exit point. We did not encounter any issue. In fact on the first trip I went to ask police where to find the ATMs. The 2 guys took me to the domestic side where there were several ATMs by the bank offices. The international side is separated from the domestic side with a rotondo type big hall. All the shops and restaurants, incl 2 mini supermarkets, are on the domestic side.
今年暑假的旅行，我們一家去了南半球的南非。
地理簡介：
南非位於非洲大陸最南端，是少數以國土位置命名的國家。陸地面積是法國的2倍，英國的5倍，境內還有一個國中國Lesotho。北部跟五個南部非洲國家接壤，東南西三面則被印度洋和大西洋環抱，海岸線平直。
人口：
人口六千萬，南非是南半球人口密度最高的國家。南非有三個首都，Pretoria (行政)，Bloemfontein(司法)，和Cape Town開普敦（立法）。最大的城市是Johannesburg約翰內斯堡。
南非種族和文化多元，有“彩虹之國”的美稱。黑人人口約占總人口80%，白人人口比例一直下降，從1911年占總人口的22.7% 降到 2019年的7.9%。這比例雖然比美國黑人人口占總人口的14.2%低得多，但我們在南非旅行時接觸到的絕大多數都是白人。
語言：
南非竟然有11種官方語言！英文是通用語，但60%的白人母語是Afrikaans（南非荷蘭語），而大部分黑人的母語是本族裔的族語。基本上每個南非人都會兩種以上的語言。我們在南非這一路，雖然英文暢通無阻，但很多時候也處於懵圈狀態，因為南非人彼此之間說我們聽不懂的Afrikaans或者族語。南非白人的英語口音跟英國口音最接近，但黑人的口音就帶著比較濃的本族語口音。
氣候：
南非的季節和北半球的相反。冬季來南非有不少優點，最主要的一點就是冬天是Safari最佳季節。因為夏季水草豐滿，枝繁葉茂，動物藏身其間，可就難找了。
實戰經驗匯報：冬天真的太棒了！叢林葉凋草枯，使動物的隱蔽性大大降低，另外水源減少也逼迫動物們集中在water holes，更容易找動物。早晚雖冷，白天氣溫都飆到high 70s，十分宜人。更重要的一點，冬天是旱季，鮮少蚊蟲，也就沒有瘧疾的隱憂。想想看，如果夏天來，一天六、七個小時坐在敞篷越野車被非洲的烈日曝曬，又悶又熱，還要被蚊蟲叮咬，擔心瘧疾。。。 難以想像啊。
除了Kruger這一帶，南非其他地方的冬季氣溫也很溫和，遊客又少，吃飯、玩景點都不用等不用搶，我們玩的超舒服的。
這次全程只有我家貝貝傍晚時在Kruger國家公園裡的水潭旁看河馬時被叮了個包（誰叫她穿背心短褲！！），其他時間真的一隻蚊子都沒見著，我特意買的off wipes一個都沒有用上。
著衣：
Kruger早晚冷吱吱，一定一定要戴上保暖的毛線帽，行進中敞篷車的wind chill真不是開玩笑的。老公最怕冷，把全家四口的ski jacket內膽塞進了行李，營地還貼心準備了毛毯。但太陽升起後又能熱到70多度，短袖還嫌熱。總之洋蔥式穿衣不會錯。
旅行路線：
大致可以分三段
1. 東北部的Kruger國家公園Safari。
2. 南部沿海的garden route
3. 開普敦 Cape Town.
租車：
兩段租車都用了Hertz，好巧兩部車都是Toyota Cross，算standard SUV，都很新。租車還車一切順利。
第一段租車，約堡-》約堡，6天，$300
第二段租車，Port Elizabeth -> Cape Town，10天，$800。
友情提醒，高速公路的收費站不收美國的信用卡，務必準備現金支付。不要像我們在toll plaza被活活卡住，多虧了後面的車主慷慨解囊相救。
境內航班：
Johannesburg -> Port Elizabeth 用的Airlink，很便宜，$45/人，服務很好。
行程如下：
Day 1: 漫長的旅行，經紐約->Johannesburg，飛15小時，晚上6點著陸，宿機場酒店。
Day 2: Joburg 開車逛Panorama Route上兩個景點到Hazyview小鎮B&B住下。南非是個非常美麗的國家，一路上的風景美不勝收。
Day 3: 從Hazyview 開車10分鐘進Kruger國家公園，在公園內開車找動物，宿公園內茅草屋。
公園大門的sightings board。
一路上睜大眼睛找動物，兩個小孩時時驚呼。
第一次看到野生大象好激動。後來還看到了獅子和cheetah，好多好多河馬，野牛、大象、長頸鹿、斑馬、羚羊。。。就更普遍了。
Day 4-6: Kruger的自駕只是開胃菜，接下來才是大餐--我們去私人的動物保護區，住在Sausage Tree Safari Camp營地三晚，食宿全包，嚮導帶著一天早晚兩次game drive。真是畢生難忘的超棒的體驗。特別幸運，每個drive都看到獅子和leopard，有時候還看到兩群獅子。最後一天大家說想看犀牛，導遊追了一個半小時，真追到了，黑犀牛和白犀牛都看到飽。
草原的清晨
（弟弟拍的）與獅子的四目相對
來自獵豹的凝視
奔向長頸鹿群的雄獅。
溫柔的日落
Day 7:最後一次的game drive，Safari後，我們飛到Port Elizabeth（又名Gqeberha），宿Port Elizabeth民宿。
Day 8: 開啟Garden Route自駕遊。第一站Tsitsikamma 國家公園，住公園旁小木屋。
小朋友第一次玩ziplining
Day 9-10: Garden Route第二站 Plettenberg Bay, 住兩晚馬場莊園小木屋。
去Robert Nature Reserve健行。
還去了大象保護區
Day 11: 往內陸Oudtshoorn。探訪鴕鳥農莊，特別好玩兒。宿農莊。
Day 12: 酒鄉Stellenbosch，住酒莊。
Day 13-16: Cape Town，住airbnb公寓4晚。
南非最美的城市Cape Town。坐talbe mountain纜車上山，山頂風光無限。
依山傍海，Cape Town真得天獨厚。
地理課本裡提到的好望角
黃昏時，在海灘和萌萌的企鵝hang out
小朋友還是第一次坐直升飛機
Lion's head 健行
Day 17: Cape Town -》 伊斯坦布爾，進城快閃逛了小半天。
索非亞大教堂
感恩，整個行程都很順利，我們玩得非常盡興。highlight絕對是住在私人營地Sausage Tree的那四天三夜，和野生動物那麼親密的近距離對視，晚上伴著獅子的吼聲，hyena的嘶鳴。。。瑟瑟發抖地入睡，畢生難忘。
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南非2022（0）行程 朋友的安慰 经历失望 紐約暴走一日 約旦埃及2021（完）Coptic開羅，薩拉丁城堡一直对那里的安全状况不太放心，不过南非在非洲已经是最安全的国家了。
你前一阵子回家了我就在想，什么时候量子给我们看遊記大片?
真高兴你能写这个，会 debunk 很多人对於南非的偏见，例如不安全啦，落后啦，等等。那些当然有，但是这个國家也有极多亮点，而且是其它地方没有的。
我的一个美國朋友以前差不多每隔一年就去，经常嘮叨我要去一趟…… 老是説你在那里可以做 Self Drive Safari 呵，除了南非？他久不久就说一次，我听足了三年。最后终于起行。结果一發不可收拾，連續去了三年。 我覚得他説得好，如果你能不受仍然极大的黑白不平等和巨大的貧富悬殊 影响心情（因为你無能為力）南非是一个旅行性价比极高的地方。他们的女儿在去了南非几次之后要求在南非上一年大学。做爹娘的最后也答应了。疫情前两年完成了她在 Stellenbosch (是酒乡又是大学城）的一年交換生生活。
有沒有在 Tsitsitkama 國家公园夜晚看到极亮的星空？ 那儿没有光污染，没有月亮的晚上星星极其闪爍。
你们很有可能会再去的，不同季节有不同的景色。 我们三次去都是不同季节。野花季节和观鲸季节，shark diving 季节性都有不同玩法。
去南非就是旅程太長。 我们都是把它 break 开來，如果坐國泰 CX, 來回都经香港停几天，这是阿拉斯加航空里程票的福利 國际单程都可以有一个 Stopover。 另外经 多哈通常有 long layover, 可以在 lounge 淋个浴，休息一下。Qatar 航空在 Doha 的 lounges 极好 真的可以休息。
说起你们的快闪 Istanbul, 我们更瘋狂。第一次玩完南非之后，我们在一天之内 飞了这个行程 - Cape Town 飞 约堡，约堡飞多哈，(卡塔尔航空）多哈飞伊斯坦堡，伊斯坦堡飞 Adana (土耳其航空） Cape Town to Jo'burg and Istanbul to Adana 是独立票 所以要預足时间在 Cape Town 走，结果在约堡望眼欲穿的等 Qatar 开始了check in. 只有 check in 了才能进禁区，lounges 全都是在禁区内。六時從 Cape Town 酒店去机场，晚上七时在 Adana 机场取車。 （十天土耳其自駕）從未在一天中经过这么多机塲！
期待着更新，特别是你们在 Cape Town 爬 lion head trail 的片子。
玩得真痛快。谁做的行程和booking？
私人保护区？你是说Safari动物园吗？
在自然保护区开的时候，你们结伴的还是就自己开的？我老公同事一家自己开的，从不同的地点进入保护区，——因为面积太大了，他们曾经遇到危险，因为误入象群，汽车阻隔了大象对小象的视线，象群差一点对他们发动攻击
那个好望角，意义太大了！
在开普敦上山，只能坐缆车？那我上不去了
你們的經驗豐富又難得，希望也能整理發表出來。
南非的 Private Reserves 跟國家公园无边界接攘的，动物们自由來往。 Kruger 國家公园极大 你去看个地图就知道了 莫三鼻给也在東部佔一小份。去Kruger 南面入口用的路可以直通莫三鼻给，所以 Toll 很貴。
在 Private Reserve 有个好处，因为 owners 会在 Reserves 里面经常性地放一些动物界food chain 里的被猎食的目标 就是令猛獸们容易猎食。久而久之，猛獸们就会來多了，你们遊客 game drive 时見到 Big Five in a short period 的机会比在國家公园里高很多。國家公园是纯粹靠运气。Which approach more authentic 就見仁見智了。
量子是撿到了。我们在 2015，2016 和 2017 都去了南非。那时 在 Sabre River 附近几个 Private Reaerve 差不多要 USD400 to 500 per person per day. 疫情提供了很多旅行 Bargains.
你朋友遇上象群的事我们遇上两次。一次是下午二三十头一大群從路的一边过去另一边。我们的 Toyota Corolla排在 在車串第一位。 有一头成年雄象 离我们的小車子不足二尺 慢悠悠地走过。我的相机根本不能拍到牠的全身。先生則是担心牠会一个轉身趴在我们的車头蓋上，如果这个发生 很大可能是車毁人伤。
另外一次是傍晚回营地的路上。 Camp 的大门会在 六时关闭。误了时间要被罚大錢。 我们大概是一小时前往家駛，就是十五分钟的路。结果遇上一群象挡在路上，完全沒有意思 move. 其中有只年青的雄象十分 aggressive. 我们只能耐心地又很担心地等牠们会离开。 最后在 camp 关门前五分钟到家。
是，好望角在近代航海史上意义重大。
桌山如果你夠 stamina 你可以走Trail 上去。有些段要手脚并用的。車子是去不了的。
在 freeway 走错了知道在那里轉路。
我们第一次时在 Avis 的机塲車庫出来时就上错了 Ramp. 在 freeway 上 换來换去，就是靠知道大致的地名和方向。一直听到 Transponder beep 了好多次。但到交車时 Toll charges 也没有多少。
每天早上四点半出门，有跟公园的tour，也自驾。看到数不清的动物。好想再去。
去年才把南非游记写出来。https://blog.wenxuecity.com/myblog/64496/125926.html
translate to find the right Chinese words too!
我怕匪更怕警，犹豫再三，还是乘飞机到Kruger国家公园再租车去私人营地，很不方便。
use the finger on the iPad is not slow. The main issue is iPad often does not recognize certain words, that I could never make it come up the first try. Words (in Chinese), like restaurant, from, good, etc It always gives me something else, "good" often becomes daugher and son, 2 Chinese words...
Right now I am on an ancient desktop, no touch screen therefore the quickest way is to type English!
to Kruger started from Durban. Went thru KwaZulu-Natal, an area probably hardly any independent western tourist ever drives thru. Were stopped by police twice, including one came out from no where (his car was parked several tens of yards away under tree shades). My husband had the guts to ask the police back, "How would I know you are police?!" The police then pointed to his car that was hidden away. As soon as they saw our US passports and Avis rental car contract, he said, "Oh, Avis. OK, you can go now. Have a good trip."
We went thru many small towns, including one town we stayed overnight at a BnB at the outskirt of the town. Plenty of the local travellers who seemed to be of better economic sociostatus used the same BnB. We have never felt unsafe in our South Africa trips, and we went to South Africa 3 years in a row.
If not for the time-consuming border crossing, we would have crossed Swaziland to get to Kruger. Swaziland has 3 of its own national parks that were administered by the South Africa NP system, and our Annual Pass could be used there. However the border crossing based on others who had done it, was extremely unpredictable when it came to the time-consumed. At the end we gave up that idea, took a circumvent approach of its border, then headed to Kruger. Hence the need to spend a night in a Bnb of a small town.
I think a lot of the police harrassments seem to happen near Jo'burg, and seem to only reported by tourists from Mainland China. No idea why so. But we had multiple encounters with South Africa police, including planted roadside check points. Each time nobody gave us any hard time, they just looked at the passports and driver license, sometimes took a peek on the rental car contract but not really read it - once they saw the Avis logo, they seemed to be satisfied.
我们自驾去了Swaziland (现在改名字了)。
南非高速很好开，也没啥车。开了一大圈没遇到过警车。
changed its name. I forgot what it is called now.
In KwaZulu-Natal, there is very few 高速. Even the "national routes" can be very narrow and look like farm roads. Actually they ARE farm / lumber production roads that go thru various plantations and lumber lands. More than once my husband questioned me, "You sure we should take this road? It looks so narrow, does not look like a major route at all." After a few times he realized those roads are primarily built for economic activities, NOT for tourist driving! LOL.
是一位美国去的白人，因为口角被关进xx处。我相信这种事发生的远多于写出的，不想这种影响旅途心情的事发生在我们身上，宁可麻烦点，少玩点，惹不起还躲不起吗：）。
Anyone has an oz of brain, should know you never argue with officials / border control / custom officers... This is the same everywhere, incl in USA. You do not want to give them any excuse to make your life difficult!
All our 3 trips to South Africa used JNB as entry / exit point. We did not encounter any issue. In fact on the first trip I went to ask police where to find the ATMs. The 2 guys took me to the domestic side where there were several ATMs by the bank offices. The international side is separated from the domestic side with a rotondo type big hall. All the shops and restaurants, incl 2 mini supermarkets, are on the domestic side.
好棒的行程，信息很有用。你们一家都是旅行达人，行程总是人文历史地理都兼顾，这次还有这么多的动物大片，太棒了。 赞赞赞。期待后面的精彩游记！