Capri is a small island in the Bay of Naples. In the eyes of the Italians, Capri is perhaps just like the legendary Land of Peach Blossoms in the eyes of the Chinese: natural, peaceful, and free of mundane pollution.
I have visited Capri twice, once in 1983, once in 1987. The purpose of the first visit in 1983 was simply sightseeing. The tour, as first planned, was to do Naples only. In the space of two days, we did nearly all the sights in Naples: from the palace and opera house of the time of the Kingdom of Naples to the monastery where Thomas Aquinas wrote his Summa Theologia, the ruins of Pompeii, etc. Most of the group who were well contented with what they had seen decided to end the tour and return to Rome. But the rest preferred to revisit Capri, I among them. At the time, the reason why I made this choice was perhaps that I had felt, subconsciously, the need for a mental balance. For, after seeing too many things which had a lot to do with ideologies, one could not but feel rather tense, even though they were only traces of ancient strifes. So, to seek relaxation after tension, we came again to Capri.
The atmosphere in Capri was indeed altogether different, although the passage from the port of Naples took only an hour and a half. Here there were no medi castles that were black like clotted blood, no crucifixes that were too large and too heavy, no frenzied dissipations of Pompeii, no statues of heroes who always looked down at you with swords unsheathed. Here there were only wind, water, and sunshine, only sunlit colorful sails gliding along placidly. All sounds receded, even tourists waxed silent as if forbearing to disturb the transparent atmosphere.Only the rhythmic beating of the waves responded to distant songs. Across the sea could be seen dimly blocks of red buildings and green trees marking Sorrento, the homeland of "Solo Mio" and "Santa Lucia".
In 1987 I came to Capri for the second time, but not to seek mental balance. Rather, for the sake of astronomy although it was also after having too much "sightseeing" of ideology, and modern ideology at that. Now there is a very small observatory on the island which is used for the study of the sun, as the sun is particularly bright over here and it is therefore easier to see clearly the black spots in its brightness. The observatory belongs to German astronomers. Due to inconvenience in administration, the Germans offered to close down the observatory and sell the estate. The Italian Ministry of Education, which was inclined to buy it, therefore asked the International Centre for Relativistic Astrophysics to make an evaluation first. As a member of the Centre, I took part in the evaluation.
The Capri Observatory, like the island itself, is small and exquisite, very fascinating. It does not boast an imposing telescope dome, neither is it built on the top of a hill. It is housed in a villa overlooking the sea. Like the other villas in the neighborhood, it has a large forest and extensive lawns, amid which stand small white buildings .There is a sun tower at the observatory, which also stands in the midst of trees, and is also white and so very tranquil that it seems to have the solemnity of a graveyard. It occurred to me that the German astronomers who worked here must have often recalled the epitaph of Immanuel Kant:
The starry heavens above me and the moral law within me fill the mind with ever new and increasing admiration and awe, the oftener and the more steadily we reflect on.
As it was vacation time, we did not meet the German astronomers. There was only a caretaker around, who knew nothing of astronomy, but who very obligingly showed us around the place. He told us as much as he knew about the observatory, including the facilities and the working and living conditions, and also a nearby country inn which he said was the finest in all Capri.
When we dined at the inn, the table was set under the shade of the trees, surrounded by tall grass with insects flying about. An Italian friend remarked casually, “Everything in Capri is so friendly. Look, there are many small animals and small winged insects here, but none of them does man any harm. There are varieties of trees and grasses here, but none is poisonous."My uation followed spontaneously: The Capri Observatory may have no special scientific value, but it may be an observatory that can best embody the spirit of astronomy. There are many areas of research in astronomy, but not a single one of them does any harm to mankind. Astronomy seeks neither worldly vanities, nor overbearing power and influence .It seeks only understanding of the heavens ,and accepts only direct revelation from the heavens .In the entire world of science ,astronomy is the Island of Capri, clean, noble, inspiring.
Of course, astronomy does not stand aloof from the world. On the contrary, more understanding and more revelation will lead to more firmness, a firmness of conviction that cannot be got any other way. Likewise ,the moral law within man will rise to a higher level,after one is cleansed by the wind and water of Capri.
When you stand on Monte Salero, the highest peak on Capri, you will find the waves looking smaller and the surface of the sea becoming more and more an ideal plane ,open and boundless. Yes, the whole world should be like this: ideal, open, and boundless. At this time, there grows in your mind not only disgust and disdain at the curses by totems, uncivilized barbarities ,the addiction to lies, and the worship of the non-existent ,but a feeling of pity, pity for ignorance. I came to understand how Galileo must have felt when murmured:"The earth is still rotating!"What he felt was a pity for the world which was still replete with ignorance. Being a man who knew clearly how the sun rotated and how the universe evolved, what else but pity could he feels for those ignoramuses who persisted in a primitive creed? The age of Galileo was long past, yet not quite past.
When night came, these thoughts of mine grew even stronger. For one thing ,as Capri at night was even more quiet and more natural, you could feel only your own thoughts when everything else receded. For another we stayed at a hotel at a distinctive location-----Via Mulo or the Alley of Mountain Mules----on a hillside. Next to the hotel stood a very elegant villa with a marble plaque beside the door, on which was inscribed:
Maxim Gorky lived here from February 1911 to November 1913.
What, Gorky had stayed next to us for nearly three long years! It seemed so inharmonious. For in my mind, the image of Gorky should always be among the waifs of Kazan, the boat trackers on the Volga, and the red flags of The Mother. How could he have also lingered among the hills and waters of Capri where there were neither flags nor warcries?
But actually, the two can be brought into harmony. What is it mainly that enables man to free himself from the sufferings of homeless waifs and trackers ?To be sure, the warcries of yesterday did help, but certainly not warcries of ignorance and benightedness, nor even less, threats of bloodshed against freedom. What brings man happiness and freedom is first of all wisdom, a wisdom that manifests reason in sobriety. What could more make a man feel the sober beauty of this wisdom than Capri? What could more inspire a man's yearning for a free heaven and a free earth than Capri? Gorky was right.
The night grew late and Capri was fast asleep. I felt I was already looking forward to another visit to Capri.
Lovely is the sea around me Like your deep blue eyes a-dancing Wakes memories entrancing Starts me dreaming, dear, of you...
Next time I come I will certainly sing this song "Come Back to Sorrento" and enjoy once again the pursuit of freedom.
我是一个追梦人，虽然我并不多梦。现在追的，有的还是年轻时的旧梦。
八十年代后期，《读者》上面有一篇方励之教授写的《重访卡普里》，不多时又在《英语世界》上读到巫宁坤教授的英译。这篇文章给我很深印象。正是从文章中，我第一次知道《重归苏莲托》这首歌和苏莲托这个地方。我记得方教授提到卡普里岛上那座太阳天文台，更忘不了文章结尾“对自由的追求”那一行醒目的字。
那时我年轻，苏莲托、卡普里和自由成了我的梦。这梦在当时显得有些遥远，但我一直梦想着能实现它。
2019年故乡爆发新冠瘟疫的时候，我们正在欧洲旅游。巴塞罗那圣家堂（Sagrada Família）里人山人海，回想起来，那似乎是最后的自由。不多久瘟疫传到欧美，熟知的人中有亲友染疫去世。一开始还能到比较偏僻的步道散步。后来当局号召居家防疫，只好坚壁清野，一切网购，靠每天到后院打羽毛球锻炼身体、接受阳光。
到2022年初夏，我们已经戴了两年多口罩、打了全套疫苗。是时候了。我跟家人提起苏莲托，他们毫无概念。好在是旅游胜地，不需要我做说服工作。我们决定到那里小住。这不是第一次到苏莲托，因为她一直在我梦中。几十年的风吹雨打，虽然梦的螺丝锈迹斑斑，但在我心中已经生根、越结越牢。重归苏莲托，是实现多年旧梦，是找回本来就属于自己的自由。
苏莲托进进出出都方便。乘坐公共交通不出一个来小时，既可以往北到那不勒斯、维苏威火山、庞贝古城，往南到美丽的阿马尔菲海岸，也可以到第勒尼安海里的卡普里岛或伊斯基亚岛。租车自驾并不划算，而且有相当风险。不绝的山峦和惊险的海岸线之间，山路蜿蜒而狭窄，在拐弯处错车、来来回回，并享受不到自驾的乐趣。我们一直坐公交。
不谈周边的风景名胜，苏莲托本身就是世界级的目的地。小城坐落在山海之间，一边是海景，一边是山景。日日夜夜，山海之间都是熙熙攘攘。游客来自世界各地，街上摩肩接踵。此地气候温和，夏天阳光明媚、空气干燥。我们在那儿呆了三个星期，只在一天晚上下过雨。当然这里也无法游离于全球气候之外，按当地标准，今夏热得反常。这里盛产柠檬和柠檬甜酒，空气里弥漫着一股柠檬味儿。柠檬树和橄榄树的墨绿，点缀在五颜六色的建筑物之间。无需破费，餐馆常免费提供柠檬甜酒。
我们的爱彼迎在橘街边、四楼，火车站就在街对面。宾至如归，接下来可以作从容的逍遥游。难怪乐不思蜀。每天早上，我们的早餐都有音乐伴奏，火车站里手风琴师不知疲倦地演奏《声声慢》（Despacito）的曲调。我喜欢看周游列国的旅人拉着沉重的行李箱进出车站，只要不是我自己。夜夜笙歌，夜晚经常在盛大的焰火晚会中结束，大概是从大码头那儿发射的。我们的阳台是绝佳的观景台，但是直到离开，我们也没闹明白，到底为什么动不动就燃放焰火。
在苏莲托观赏日落，是份独一无二的体验。当地气候条件稳定，但是每个日落都各有不同。天幕的成色、云彩的形状和颜色、太阳的大小、海上的迷雾、远处的岛屿和船只，变幻莫测。唯有日落能让这座小城暂时停止喧嚣。临了，集体静默总要被观看日落的人群散开前的鼓掌声打破。但是，苏莲托的日落真正不寻常的地方，在于它持久的余晖。八点半日落，但是到九点半余晖才完整，环绕整个那不勒斯海湾。其时海面全黑，而中天蔚蓝，蔚为壮观。
跟日落一样多变的，是您对这座梦幻小城的观感。您对海岸线的观感取决于您所处的位置和高度。您对小城的观感却决于您离海岸线的距离。橘街以西直到海岸是旅游区，是五湖四海、川流不息游客无尽的狂欢。橘街以东直到山麓才是居民区，宁静平和、脚踏实地、原汁原味的意大利。
好几次，我们深入当地人的领地。到接近山脚的时候，已经见不到游客的踪迹了。民宅散布在山坡上，有时还很陡峭。蜿蜒在高墙之间的夹道，心如止水。偶尔可以瞥见人家的院落和花园。不知不觉中，我们走到了公用通道的尽头，山顶只在一箭之遥。眼前一栋很像样的宅子，花园很大。那家的闺女从阳台上给我们招手，“哈罗”，而不是“笨猪罗”。我们得以就近察看山顶豪宅，而平时只能在远处发挥想象。返身下山，整座城都在夕阳中燃烧。我们以几滴汗的代价，看到了千金不换的景致。
面对当地美食，我们无异饕餮（tāo tiè）。当地人自认是那不勒斯人，但是我宁肯相信他们的烹饪要比那不勒斯正宗。像那不勒斯那样的大都市易受外来影响，而像苏莲托这样的小城偏居一隅，往往能更好保持自己的传统。本地产的柠檬和橄榄油、海里刚捞起的水产品，外地厨师做梦也别想。新鲜的橄榄油入口清冽，余味辛辣。我们的最爱，有海鲜什锦、海鲜面和猪肉小方饺等。为了在有限的时间里品尝尽可能多样的食物，我们有意不做回头客，即便好吃。
但是波波罗酒家让我们欲罢不能，先后去了三次。到后来，我们都能分辨出，谁是店主、哪几位伙计是一家人。这家一家拥有、几家合开的餐馆代表苏莲托传统家庭厨艺的精华。这个地方总是宾客满座，但是运转井井有条。每位员工、包括店主，各司其职。餐品常来自出其不意的地方，而入口出人意料地美味。冷切柜的老伙计先送一袋面包，再递来火腿奶酪拼盘。男侍应生从一个方向端来色拉，女侍应生从另一个方向端来意面。然后店主从厨房将我们的爆蒜蛏（razor clams）递给他女儿，她的装扮、神态和语气都有着村姑的诚朴。全体员工配合得天衣无缝，犹如交响乐团。不少客人跟我们一样，很欣赏他们的表演。
弗兰克披萨店食品哲学分店有本地最好吃的披萨。他们算是悟透了披萨里的哲学。
我们没上过烹饪班。有段时间我们在两个不同的时区远程工作，得在当地时间七点以前吃完晚饭。但七点半以前没有餐馆开门。那些天里，我们自己做晚饭。一盘卡普里色拉，或者蔬菜色拉。一盘生菜，撒上胡椒粉和帕尔马干酪粉，淋上橄榄油和香脂醋，就是本地的蔬菜色拉，简单、好吃还健康。本地人不做凯撒色拉，我们后来才知道那是意裔美国人的发明。我学着做奶酪胡椒意面，有时加些肉末。吃的人说不比餐馆差。本地人只把面条煮到八成熟，吃起来有嚼劲。本地买不到阿尔弗雷多酱，那也是意裔美国人发明的。
在一家叫菲利普的餐馆，食客多是美国人。我们旁边，一对意大利夫妇面前一大盘煎鱼，还有别的菜，正吃得津津有味。我们不禁眼馋，陷入《当哈利遇到萨利》的时刻。“对不起，您说英语吗？”一位女士，三十出头，打断他们，“你们吃的叫啥，我想点你们点的。”脸皮子这样地薄，哪有美国人做不出、做不成的事？
坐船去卡普里只要半小时，我们去了两次。岛上有两个镇，卡普里和阿纳卡普里。因为地形陡峭，而且景点分散，一天游完全岛比较困难。从大码头可以坐巴士去阿纳卡普里。我们坐升降椅登上太阳山。路上一群年轻姑娘即兴演唱《我欲凌空》。她们唱得真好，而且山坡有回音，空中没有障碍，音效无与伦比。在山顶可以看到卡普里岛的全景。海雾环岛游弋，来去不定，犹如风中面纱，制造出一种仙境的效果。我们腾云驾雾。
我们坐巴士去的蓝洞。洞内空间有限，入口比水面只高一英尺。多数游客是坐船来的，而我们在岸上排队。一艘小船将我们先送到一艘大船缴费，然后进洞。阳光里的红光被海水吸收，而蓝光折射和散射进入原本黑暗的岩洞，洞内水体泛着一汪蓝色的光。蓝洞让船工变成安德烈·波切利，高歌《飞翔》（Volare），它自己是多好的一个回音腔啊！人们不禁跃入水中。岩洞里生成了属于自己的大气层，由黑暗、光波、声波和动感组成。
在岛的东南角，耸立着三座高大的石柱，由海浪侵蚀而成。位于中间的“次高音”高达269英尺。我们从卡普里镇中心走到特拉加拉观景台，拾级而下，一直走到特拉加拉点，好从近旁领略这奇观。其中一天，回苏莲托的船还有俩小时，我们想打的去约维斯庄园。卡普里的士很招风，有敞篷的，也有软顶的。司机不带我们，去庄园的路只能步行。我们时间不够，漫无目的步行到了坎农点观景台，看蓝色海洋里，象牙一般的石柱。
甭管您在岛上呆多久，最好坐一趟环岛游的船。在船上，我们看到海水对岩石缓慢而可见的侵蚀。船不小，似乎比“次高音”的拱门还要高大，正犯愁看骆驼如何穿过针眼，骆驼已来到针眼正中，太阳先被遮挡、然后重现，不啻一幕意大利喜剧。同样富有戏剧性的，是横陈在半椭圆形洞穴竖直蛋壳上方的郎世宁庄园，这种巧夺天工达到了犯罪级。不坐这船，就看不到完整的“犯罪”现场。游船经过耸立在阿纳卡普里西南角的卡雷那点灯塔，回到大码头，卡普里满幅画面尽在眼前。
方教授考察过的那座天文台，在蓝洞正上方不远处。先生羽化，天文台早已废弃。但是只要梦还在，心就不会死。只要心在跳，对自由的追求就不会停。
“重归苏莲托，让我痛快地活！”
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我不是唯一的追梦人。文学城有人去卡普里找那座天文台，找了两天，遍寻不得。您如果一定要去，其准确地址为Via Grotta Azzurra, 1, 80071 Anacapri NA, Italy.
更多我的博客文章>>> 嘉信理财：投资与大选 送给儿子的十八岁生日（2/2） 送给儿子的十八岁生日（1/2） 政治，去它母亲的 有关陈冲的一段旧事
一头扎到华尔街去了。虽然忘了初心，不过估计早就是个亿万富翁了，也算是求仁得仁了
重访卡普里
方励之
卡普里是那不勒斯海湾中的一个小岛。在意大利人心目中的卡普里，也许就 像中国人心目中的世外桃源，自然、幽静、没有尘世的污染。我两次访问过卡普里，一次是１９８３年，一次是１９８７年。１９８３年的初访，目的 纯粹是旅游。那次观光，原本只限于那不勒斯。两天里我们几乎走遍了整个那不 勒斯的名胜。从那不勒斯王国时代的宫廷、歌剧院，到托马斯.阿奎那撰著的 《神学大全》的修道院，到威苏维火山脚下的废城庞培……许多人就此尽了兴， 决定结束旅游，返回罗马。但一些人执意再去卡普里。我就属于后者。当时我之 所以这样选择，可能是下意识地感到精神需要平衡。因为看了许多的具有浓厚意 识形态色彩的东西之后，不免令人紧张，哪怕那些东西都只是古代纷争的遗迹。 为了寻求紧张之后的松弛，我们来到了卡普里。
卡普里的气氛，的确完全不同了，虽然它距那不勒斯港只有一个半小时的船 程。这里没有黑黑如血迹的古堡，没有太大太沉重的十字架，没有庞培的疯狂的 淫逸，没有总是俯视你的刀剑出鞘的英雄雕像。这里只有风、水和阳光。只有阳 光之下的彩色的帆，静静的，似动不动。一切声响都隐退了，甚至游客也不再多 说，似乎不忍用任何声音去打扰这透明的空气。只有浪的节拍和着远处的歌。隔 海隐约可见的一片红房绿树，就是苏莲托，就是《我的太阳》、《桑塔露齐亚》 的故乡。
１９８７年再访卡普里，并不是为了寻求平衡。虽然，按时间说，这也恰是在太 多的意识形态“观光”之后，而且是当代的意识形态“观光”。我们来到卡普里， 是为了天文学。原来，卡普里岛上有一个很小的天文台，是研究太阳的，因为这 里的太阳更明亮，也更容易看清它的明亮中的黑斑。天文台属于德国天文学家。 由于管理上的不便，德国人准备关掉这个天文台，卖掉它所属的地产。意大利教 育部有意买下它，为此，先请国际相对论天体物理中心评价一下这个天文台。作 为该中心的成员之一，我参加了这一评价。
卡普里天文台，像卡普里的整个环境一样，小巧、精致、引人玩赏，它没有 高大的望远镜圆顶，也并不设在山颠。它就在一座临海的别墅中。同周围的别墅 一样，有很大的树林、草地、和散在其中的白色小楼。天文台有一个太阳塔，也 在树丛中，也是白色的。肃静极了，似有一种墓地的崇高。我想，在这里工作的 德国天文学家一定时常想起康德的墓志铭：
有两种东西，我们对它们的思考越是深沉和持久，它们所唤起的那种惊奇和 敬畏就会越来越大地充溢我们的心灵，这就是繁星密布的苍穹和我心中的道德律。
因为是假日，我们没有遇到德国天文学家。只有一位看门人在。他不懂天文 学，但很殷勤地领着我们参观，尽他所知地向我们介绍，包括这里的设施、工作 和生活条件，也包括他告诉我们距天文台很近的一家乡村式餐馆，是整个卡普里 岛上第一流的。
当我们在那个餐馆就餐时，餐桌就放在树阴下，周围是草丛，还有草丛中的 飞虫。一位意大利朋友不经心地说：“卡普里的一切都很友善，你看，这里有许 多小动物、小飞虫，但其中没有一种是为害于人的，这里有各种草木，也没有一 种是有毒的。”我不由得作出了我的评价：卡普里天文台也许不具有太特别的学 术价值，但它可能是最能体现天文学精神的一个天文台了。天文学中有许多研究 领域，但没有一种是为害于人的。天文学不追求市俗的虚荣，不追求咄咄的声势。 它只追求对苍穹的理解，接受来自苍穹的直接启示。在整个科学中，天文学就是 卡普里岛，洁净、高尚、令人神往。
当然，天文学并不是出世的超脱，相反，越多的理解，越多的启示，就会有 越多的坚定，一种用其他途径都不能获得的信念的坚定。就如同经过卡普里的风 和水的洗涤之后，心中的道德律会有一种升腾。当你站在卡普里的最高峰沙来罗 峰向下看时，你会发现，原来的波浪变小了。海面成了越来越理想的平面，坦荡、 无边。是啊，整个世界都应当是这样的理想、坦荡、无边。这时，在你的心里， 对于那些图腾的赌咒、未开化的野蛮、对谎言的嗜好、对不存在的崇拜，不再仅 仅是厌恶、鄙弃，而且有一种可怜，对愚昧的可怜。我懂了，伽利略在喃喃地说 出“地球还在转动啊”时的心境，那是一种对世间还充满如此多的愚昧的可怜。 一个清清楚楚地知道地球如何运行、宇宙如何演化的人，对那些坚持原始教义的 愚昧，除了可怜他们之外，还能有什么呢？伽利略的时代早就过去了，但还没有 完全过去。
入夜，我的这些想法更强烈了。一则因为，夜的卡普里更静，更自然，你除 了感到你的思想外，其他都消失了。也因为，我们下榻在一个位置很特别的旅馆 里。旅馆在半山的一个小巷中，巷名是Ｖｉａ Ｍｕｌｏ，直译是山驴胡同。旅馆隔壁 有一个相当考究的别墅，门前有一块大理石板，上面刻着：
马克西姆.高尔基于１９１１年２月至１９１３年１１月居住于此。
高尔基曾在我们隔壁住过三年之久！似乎太不协调了。在我的印象中，高尔 基的形象应当总是在喀山的流浪儿中，在伏尔加河的纤夫中，在《母亲》的红旗 中。他怎么竟也会在这没有红旗、没有呐喊的卡普里山水中流连？
其实，二者是可以协调的。使人摆脱流浪、摆脱拉纤的苦难的，主要是什么？ 当然有那些昨天的呐喊，但并不是无知和愚昧的呐喊，更不是以“不怕流血”对 自由的恫吓。给人类带来美好和自由的，首先是智慧，冷静里透出理性的智慧。 有什么比卡普里更能使人感受到这种智慧的冷静的美！有什么比卡普里更能引起 人们对自由天地的响往！高尔基是对的。
夜更深了，卡普里已经睡去。我盼着有机会再来卡普里。
看这海洋多么美丽，
多么激动人的心情。
看这大自然的光辉，
多么使人陶醉！
下一次一定要唱着这首《重归苏莲托》，再来享受对自由的追求！
１９８７年６月２１日写于翡冷，康塔梯诺山庄
CAPRI REVISITED
written by Fang Lizhi
translated by Wu Ningkun
Capri is a small island in the Bay of Naples. In the eyes of the Italians, Capri is perhaps just like the legendary Land of Peach Blossoms in the eyes of the Chinese: natural, peaceful, and free of mundane pollution.
I have visited Capri twice, once in 1983, once in 1987. The purpose of the first visit in 1983 was simply sightseeing. The tour, as first planned, was to do Naples only. In the space of two days, we did nearly all the sights in Naples: from the palace and opera house of the time of the Kingdom of Naples to the monastery where Thomas Aquinas wrote his Summa Theologia, the ruins of Pompeii, etc. Most of the group who were well contented with what they had seen decided to end the tour and return to Rome. But the rest preferred to revisit Capri, I among them. At the time, the reason why I made this choice was perhaps that I had felt, subconsciously, the need for a mental balance. For, after seeing too many things which had a lot to do with ideologies, one could not but feel rather tense, even though they were only traces of ancient strifes. So, to seek relaxation after tension, we came again to Capri.
The atmosphere in Capri was indeed altogether different, although the passage from the port of Naples took only an hour and a half. Here there were no medi castles that were black like clotted blood, no crucifixes that were too large and too heavy, no frenzied dissipations of Pompeii, no statues of heroes who always looked down at you with swords unsheathed. Here there were only wind, water, and sunshine, only sunlit colorful sails gliding along placidly. All sounds receded, even tourists waxed silent as if forbearing to disturb the transparent atmosphere.Only the rhythmic beating of the waves responded to distant songs. Across the sea could be seen dimly blocks of red buildings and green trees marking Sorrento, the homeland of "Solo Mio" and "Santa Lucia".
In 1987 I came to Capri for the second time, but not to seek mental balance. Rather, for the sake of astronomy although it was also after having too much "sightseeing" of ideology, and modern ideology at that. Now there is a very small observatory on the island which is used for the study of the sun, as the sun is particularly bright over here and it is therefore easier to see clearly the black spots in its brightness. The observatory belongs to German astronomers. Due to inconvenience in administration, the Germans offered to close down the observatory and sell the estate. The Italian Ministry of Education, which was inclined to buy it, therefore asked the International Centre for Relativistic Astrophysics to make an evaluation first. As a member of the Centre, I took part in the evaluation.
The Capri Observatory, like the island itself, is small and exquisite, very fascinating. It does not boast an imposing telescope dome, neither is it built on the top of a hill. It is housed in a villa overlooking the sea. Like the other villas in the neighborhood, it has a large forest and extensive lawns, amid which stand small white buildings .There is a sun tower at the observatory, which also stands in the midst of trees, and is also white and so very tranquil that it seems to have the solemnity of a graveyard. It occurred to me that the German astronomers who worked here must have often recalled the epitaph of Immanuel Kant:
The starry heavens above me and the moral law within me fill the mind with ever new and increasing admiration and awe, the oftener and the more steadily we reflect on.
As it was vacation time, we did not meet the German astronomers. There was only a caretaker around, who knew nothing of astronomy, but who very obligingly showed us around the place. He told us as much as he knew about the observatory, including the facilities and the working and living conditions, and also a nearby country inn which he said was the finest in all Capri.
When we dined at the inn, the table was set under the shade of the trees, surrounded by tall grass with insects flying about. An Italian friend remarked casually, “Everything in Capri is so friendly. Look, there are many small animals and small winged insects here, but none of them does man any harm. There are varieties of trees and grasses here, but none is poisonous."My uation followed spontaneously: The Capri Observatory may have no special scientific value, but it may be an observatory that can best embody the spirit of astronomy. There are many areas of research in astronomy, but not a single one of them does any harm to mankind. Astronomy seeks neither worldly vanities, nor overbearing power and influence .It seeks only understanding of the heavens ,and accepts only direct revelation from the heavens .In the entire world of science ,astronomy is the Island of Capri, clean, noble, inspiring.
Of course, astronomy does not stand aloof from the world. On the contrary, more understanding and more revelation will lead to more firmness, a firmness of conviction that cannot be got any other way. Likewise ,the moral law within man will rise to a higher level,after one is cleansed by the wind and water of Capri.
When you stand on Monte Salero, the highest peak on Capri, you will find the waves looking smaller and the surface of the sea becoming more and more an ideal plane ,open and boundless. Yes, the whole world should be like this: ideal, open, and boundless. At this time, there grows in your mind not only disgust and disdain at the curses by totems, uncivilized barbarities ,the addiction to lies, and the worship of the non-existent ,but a feeling of pity, pity for ignorance. I came to understand how Galileo must have felt when murmured:"The earth is still rotating!"What he felt was a pity for the world which was still replete with ignorance. Being a man who knew clearly how the sun rotated and how the universe evolved, what else but pity could he feels for those ignoramuses who persisted in a primitive creed? The age of Galileo was long past, yet not quite past.
When night came, these thoughts of mine grew even stronger. For one thing ,as Capri at night was even more quiet and more natural, you could feel only your own thoughts when everything else receded. For another we stayed at a hotel at a distinctive location-----Via Mulo or the Alley of Mountain Mules----on a hillside. Next to the hotel stood a very elegant villa with a marble plaque beside the door, on which was inscribed:
Maxim Gorky lived here from February 1911 to November 1913.
What, Gorky had stayed next to us for nearly three long years! It seemed so inharmonious. For in my mind, the image of Gorky should always be among the waifs of Kazan, the boat trackers on the Volga, and the red flags of The Mother. How could he have also lingered among the hills and waters of Capri where there were neither flags nor warcries?
But actually, the two can be brought into harmony. What is it mainly that enables man to free himself from the sufferings of homeless waifs and trackers ?To be sure, the warcries of yesterday did help, but certainly not warcries of ignorance and benightedness, nor even less, threats of bloodshed against freedom. What brings man happiness and freedom is first of all wisdom, a wisdom that manifests reason in sobriety. What could more make a man feel the sober beauty of this wisdom than Capri? What could more inspire a man's yearning for a free heaven and a free earth than Capri? Gorky was right.
The night grew late and Capri was fast asleep. I felt I was already looking forward to another visit to Capri.
Lovely is the sea around me
Like your deep blue eyes a-dancing
Wakes memories entrancing
Starts me dreaming, dear, of you...
Next time I come I will certainly sing this song "Come Back to Sorrento" and enjoy once again the pursuit of freedom.