第二件是比较传统的简单款式,布料是wool Melton coating。A tailored cut, with set in sleeves and inseam pockets. 我现在不怎么喜欢hard tailored look,但做这种款式里面还是加了各种interfacings, 衬里是银色的。做这件时没拍照。而且还犯了一个错,需要修改一下。这件比较暖和。
Double cloth is made from two layers of fabric which have been woven loosely together by some fine threads. These two layers are not bonded together and therefore can be pulled apart along the cut edges. The connecting threads can be trimmed and removed after you pull the layers apart.
After you cut the pieces, you need to pull apart the two layers for about 1" so you can sew them together. You don't need to separate the entire pieces. You only need to separate for about 1" along the cut edges. A double cloth garment is made with about 80% hand stitching so it's the epitome of slow fashion. All seams are clean finished.
How two pieces are joined together:
The orange layer is the interior layer. The taupe layer is the exterior layer:
This is the same seam from the outside.. This is the side people see so it's machine stitched, making a finer flatter seam because it's less bulky. Trimming the seam allowance is an important step.
第一件采用双面绒wool double cloth,两层毛料织一起,可以拆开的那种布料。还有一种doubleface的双面绒是粘在一起的,那种没法分开不能使用这种缝纫法。
Non-structured oversized cut, with dropped shoulder and patch pockets. 面料虽然是两层但还是挺轻薄的,穿着像是一件长毛衣开衫,因此适合秋季或不冷的地方。
Double cloth是可以拆开的。不需衬里。除了在边角处没有用interfacing。这块布料有点太轻薄,因此效果比较软绵。制作时需要很多的手缝。一边慢悠悠地手缝一边看了不少连续剧。
第二件是比较传统的简单款式,布料是wool Melton coating。A tailored cut, with set in sleeves and inseam pockets. 我现在不怎么喜欢hard tailored look,但做这种款式里面还是加了各种interfacings, 衬里是银色的。做这件时没拍照。而且还犯了一个错,需要修改一下。这件比较暖和。
谢谢观看。祝大家节日快乐健康!
袖子左右装反了,因此前后也反了。 艾玛,这要返工挺烦人的,先拆衬里,然后拆sleeve head,垫肩,然后拆袖子,左右对换。。。
同爱double faced 的大衣!看得中的都太贵了……能够自己做一件,真了不起!
眼馋,同爱缝纫,能分享一下面料的出处吗?先谢了。
附上开纽扣缝的图,助你一臂之力,请多分享你的作品。
他说一个裁缝要练习150个以上的纽扣洞才能缝匀称。我想我一辈子都缝不了50个。 以后我还是练习做bound buttonhole好了。
Double cloth选择不多。
MoodFabrics上一直有一些。我在它家买的。
有一家网店EmmaOneSock有时也会有
提醒:
1。买double cloth别买错了,一定要注意它的描述里是否明说是可以拆开的。别买成了double face。
2。要注意它的industry weight重量标识。不能太轻(只适合做裙子, 比如crepe double cloth,都是不适合做外套的),也不能太重。有些double cloth很厚,没有drape。那些描述里有“stiff”之类字眼的都别碰。600以上的GSM是相当厚实的布料。
买之前叫店家给你寄一块样品swatch
https://www.moodfabrics.com/mood-indigo-and-silver-cloud-twill-wool-double-cloth-329010
353 GSM
Double cloth is made from two layers of fabric which have been woven loosely together by some fine threads. These two layers are not bonded together and therefore can be pulled apart along the cut edges. The connecting threads can be trimmed and removed after you pull the layers apart.
After you cut the pieces, you need to pull apart the two layers for about 1" so you can sew them together. You don't need to separate the entire pieces. You only need to separate for about 1" along the cut edges. A double cloth garment is made with about 80% hand stitching so it's the epitome of slow fashion. All seams are clean finished.
How two pieces are joined together:
The orange layer is the interior layer. The taupe layer is the exterior layer:
外层用机器缝, 内层手缝
Inner seam, 这个样品其实需要改进一下,包在里面的布料需要再剪去1/8“,这样成品会平整而不会这般泡起.
This is the same seam from the outside.. This is the side people see so it's machine stitched, making a finer flatter seam because it's less bulky. Trimming the seam allowance is an important step.
Edge finish is handled like this, all hand sewn.
里外同色,厚实一点的面料做出来更好看