你可能要试着把拉开的那一侧扳回，重新扣住弹簧，像另一侧一样。不行再用铁丝环着套紧。然后将主要受力的铁丝穿过弹簧。感觉至少要两股独立的铁丝尽量平衡穿过弹簧，以便往外拉的时候避免受力不均。也许在避免大量penetrating oil进入coolant system 的情况下，试着在塑料环外侧加少量，看看有没有一些帮助。
看看这里， use a flat head screwdriver with a hammer to split the
Cayenne 957 4.8l V8 Thermostat and Water Pump DIY ReplySubscribe Thread ToolsSearch this ThreadRate Thread #1 12-28-2014, 12:18 AM loxxrider Registered User Thread Starter Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 86 Rep Power: 11 Cayenne 957 4.8l V8 Thermostat and Water Pump DIY Disclaimer: This isn't a full step-by-step DIY with pictures of each step because I was pressed for time during this installation. However, I don't think there is a better DIY out there yet, so go ahead and give this a read if you're going to attempt to do this job. I will be happy to answer any questions you have about it to make up for the lack of pictures here.
957 V8 Thermostat and Water Pump Replacement
This weekend I performed the thermostat and water pump replacement on my 957 Turbo S. The procedure should be almost identical on all 957 4.8l V8 Cayennes aside from the extra air piping involved with the turbo cars.
I was getting a code, P2181, which was telling me that the cooling system was not getting up to temperature in time. Also, the coolant temp and then the oil temp would drop at highway speeds in temperatures below about 60 F. I figured the thermostat was at fault. I also decided to replace the water pump and serpentine belt while I was in there for preventative maintenance. For reference, this pig has about 84k miles on it. Symptoms started occurring at around 79k, but it was warm enough that the slightly stuck open thermostat didn't matter.
There are a few "special" tools needed for this job. This picture shows all of the tools i used to do the job. Notable tools needed are:
-30 mm wrench -Torx - T40 for water pump pulley removal -Torx - T30 security (only needed if replacing serpentine belt) -ETorx (inverted Torx) T?? for water pump removal NOT PICTURED -Torx - T25 screwdriver for throttle body removal
The other tools needed are a flathead for removing hose clamps, and some pliers for removing those danged spring clamps. A spring clamp tool would be very nice to have for this job, but is not required.
*note* VIM tools makes a very nice and comprehensive set of Torx bits which you may be interested in when working on just about anything German. It is available on Amazon and I would highly recommend it. They also make a great triple square set. The bits are made in China, but the quality is on-par with the best out there based on the products I've bought from them.
Here are the parts I ordered for this job. Not all of them are essential, but I did't want to have to do the job twice and only had a limited amount of time to do it, so I went a little above and beyond. All parts were ordered from ECStuning.com. They have the best prices and were able to get everything for me promptly.
- Water pump - 94810603301 - Water pump pulley - 94810609100 (not required, but I replaced mine just because it's plastic and after another 80k miles of heat cycling, you never know what might happen to it!) - Serpentine belt - 94810653300 (not required and not pictured, but not a bad idea to do while you're in there) - Thermostat - 94810612501 - Coolant - 00004330149 (I only needed about half a gallon, but had extra on hand just in case) - Special lube - 00004320593 (not really required, but again, I didn't want to have to do the job again) - Intake socket - 94810610103 (This is the stock part number. The stock part is plastic, but an aluminum version can be found at ECSTuning.com by searching for that same part number)
The intake socket is an interesting part. I chose to order one which is made from aluminum rather than plastic like the stock part. I figured this would be good from a longevity standpoint. The aluminum version is based on the latest revision of the part from Porsche and includes the "upgraded" round o-rings. The other o-rings and lube used by Porsche in the previous design led to leak problems. The only problem with the aluminum intake socket is that you may have trouble getting it out the next time the thermostat needs to be replaced. I will go into a bit more detail on this later.
Unfortunately I don't have too many pictures of the disassembly process required to get to the water pump. It is fairly simple however once you realize that how the Y-pipe comes off. Just loosen the hose clamps on the accordion flex pipes and twist the whole y-pipe assembly clockwise.
Removal of the TB is best done with a T25 torx screwdriver. I also moved various hoses aside. I only really had to remove the upper coolant hose on the driver's side of the water pump. This can be done with minimal coolant loss if you're careful. A few small misc. hoses and b**** clips later, and you'll have a clear view of the water pump area.
Break the water pump pulley bolts (T40 torx) loose with the serpentine belt still on. Then use your 30 mm wrench with the closed end on the tensioner bolt to put slack in the belt and remove it from the water pump pulley. Now you can remove the pulley and water pump (requires inverted Torx).
At this point, you should have a clear view of the intake socket.
Removing this part is probably the most difficult aspect of this job. Unless you have or can make a special tool, you will need to use the brute force method to remove it. I found it easiest to use a flat head screwdriver with a hammer to split the socket on it's bottom half. It should break apart fairly easily with minimal fear of marring the aluminum housing. Eventually, you should be able to pull it right out.
This is what mine looked like once removed.
At this point, I realized that the aluminum intake socket might not be the best idea to install in the event that I need to replace the thermostat again, however, I didn't have a different one. I'll just have to try to acquire the special tool when that happens. Here's a picture of the aluminum intake socket.
The thermostat is right behind the intake socket and can be pulled out by hand.
**As a side note, I didn't really think the thermostat seemed so bad when I took it out, but I did notice that the temperature sensitive part of it was a bit loose inside compared to the new one. Also, the water pump I pulled seemed to be in OK shape, but it did have some play in it compared to the new one. I feel much more comfortable having a new one in there. **
When installing the new intake socket, Porsche recommends using a special lube and diluting that 50:50 with water. I found this also useful for installing the thermostat. Both the intake socket and thermostat are able to be pushed in by hand.
The rest of the installation of new parts is the reverse of the removal.
However, if you're replacing the serpentine belt (which is a good idea to do if you're around 80k miles like I was) I have a few tips. The belt routing is fairly complicated and requires disconnecting two hoses and one bracket. The hoses have those stupid quick connects on them which are extremely difficult to disconnect by hand, and the small bracket requires the removal of a T30 security torx bit.
I will post a few more pictures detailing locations of certain parts at some point... feel free to add your input here!
2008 Porsche Cayenne S。Thermostat 关闭不严， 给出P2181 code.
买了下面要换的thermostat 和铝制的 Intake Socket （还有其他零件）。
按下面的视屏拆开了， 但是thermostat 外面的黑色塑料intake socket 拔不出来，那个支架都被拉直了。
（视屏第10分钟的时候开始讲怎么拔， 但我不成功。）
想用电烙铁把旧的塑料intake socket 烧断， 但是烧不动。也没法用起子从接缝的地方撬开， 结合的地方很平坦一致。
那位高手知道有没有专用工具？找 porsche cayenne thermostat installation/removal tool 没有答案。
有点束手无策， 请指导。
原来以为只有奔驰宝马设计复杂，看来都是一个德行。换个thermostat 竟然要5个小时labor！这个rubber socket 设计真是愚蠢至极。想想办法用个与这个socket尺寸大小相近的像录像里的那个黑色大socket包一层橡皮塞在里面顶住边缘（不要塞的太深），用ratchet wrench转动利用摩擦力看看能不能让它松动。看来欧洲车的设计是只管第一次安装不考虑维修方便的。
你可能要试着把拉开的那一侧扳回，重新扣住弹簧，像另一侧一样。不行再用铁丝环着套紧。然后将主要受力的铁丝穿过弹簧。感觉至少要两股独立的铁丝尽量平衡穿过弹簧，以便往外拉的时候避免受力不均。也许在避免大量penetrating oil进入coolant system 的情况下，试着在塑料环外侧加少量，看看有没有一些帮助。
或者在pull out之前试着用长的尖嘴钳之类的工具旋转一点thermostat. 以它里面有横向的金属片作固定点。
Installation tool.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/SC/131-08026475.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=SC&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1997-2008+Porsche+Boxster+Thermostat+Installation+Tool+LN+Engineering+97-08+Porsche+Thermostat+Installation+Tool+2007+2001&gclid=CjwKCAiA6seQBhAfEiwAvPqu10S2MOERYZUXWzXdA-oaTYvwov-uc6zzD2rsCsEETlddv199wleAWhoCJ8AQAvD_BwE
Everstart 966-10W 10-Inch J-Hook Battery Bolt, Tempered Steel
去Walmart 网站上去查一下。它是两个固定电池的金属blot. 钩子比较硬。如果你能在homedepot的hardware 找到短且有两个洞则可以组合成个puller. 像月亮河建议的类似，可以把钩子钩在thermostat 的底部，然后在设法pry out. 不知道是不是太长了。但你可以仿制类似的.
因为thermostat 和塑料环长期固定在那，多半有些粘死了。如果在pull之前，能稍微旋转一点，可能有助于最后的pulling.
Good luck.
PERFORMANCE TOOL W136P Wilmar 8 in. 3 Jaw Gear Puller
拉出Thermostat本体
Searched on YouTube and saw this one with electric wire and wood block
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezbecyqT-a4
https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-63953.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNjIyOTcyMzUiLCJza3UiOiI2Mzk1MyIsImlzIjoiMjIuNDkxIn0%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=16270398380&campaignid=16270398380&utm_content=134071189872&adsetid=134071189872&product=63953&store=166&gclid=CjwKCAiA6seQBhAfEiwAvPqu17nh9se5gs1UARWvlBChdwE8DJtDTnaQ0PmzdRBP76ZEdSZSQ4_A1RoChhUQAvD_BwE
Cayenne 957 4.8l V8 Thermostat and Water Pump DIY Reply Subscribe Thread Tools
957 V8 Thermostat and Water Pump Replacement
This weekend I performed the thermostat and water pump replacement on my 957 Turbo S. The procedure should be almost identical on all 957 4.8l V8 Cayennes aside from the extra air piping involved with the turbo cars.
I was getting a code, P2181, which was telling me that the cooling system was not getting up to temperature in time. Also, the coolant temp and then the oil temp would drop at highway speeds in temperatures below about 60 F. I figured the thermostat was at fault. I also decided to replace the water pump and serpentine belt while I was in there for preventative maintenance. For reference, this pig has about 84k miles on it. Symptoms started occurring at around 79k, but it was warm enough that the slightly stuck open thermostat didn't matter.
There are a few "special" tools needed for this job. This picture shows all of the tools i used to do the job. Notable tools needed are:
-30 mm wrench
-Torx - T40 for water pump pulley removal
-Torx - T30 security (only needed if replacing serpentine belt)
-ETorx (inverted Torx) T?? for water pump removal NOT PICTURED
-Torx - T25 screwdriver for throttle body removal
The other tools needed are a flathead for removing hose clamps, and some pliers for removing those danged spring clamps. A spring clamp tool would be very nice to have for this job, but is not required.
*note* VIM tools makes a very nice and comprehensive set of Torx bits which you may be interested in when working on just about anything German. It is available on Amazon and I would highly recommend it. They also make a great triple square set. The bits are made in China, but the quality is on-par with the best out there based on the products I've bought from them.
Here are the parts I ordered for this job. Not all of them are essential, but I did't want to have to do the job twice and only had a limited amount of time to do it, so I went a little above and beyond. All parts were ordered from ECStuning.com. They have the best prices and were able to get everything for me promptly.
- Water pump - 94810603301
- Water pump pulley - 94810609100 (not required, but I replaced mine just because it's plastic and after another 80k miles of heat cycling, you never know what might happen to it!)
- Serpentine belt - 94810653300 (not required and not pictured, but not a bad idea to do while you're in there)
- Thermostat - 94810612501
- Coolant - 00004330149 (I only needed about half a gallon, but had extra on hand just in case)
- Special lube - 00004320593 (not really required, but again, I didn't want to have to do the job again)
- Intake socket - 94810610103 (This is the stock part number. The stock part is plastic, but an aluminum version can be found at ECSTuning.com by searching for that same part number)
The intake socket is an interesting part. I chose to order one which is made from aluminum rather than plastic like the stock part. I figured this would be good from a longevity standpoint. The aluminum version is based on the latest revision of the part from Porsche and includes the "upgraded" round o-rings. The other o-rings and lube used by Porsche in the previous design led to leak problems. The only problem with the aluminum intake socket is that you may have trouble getting it out the next time the thermostat needs to be replaced. I will go into a bit more detail on this later.
Unfortunately I don't have too many pictures of the disassembly process required to get to the water pump. It is fairly simple however once you realize that how the Y-pipe comes off. Just loosen the hose clamps on the accordion flex pipes and twist the whole y-pipe assembly clockwise.
Removal of the TB is best done with a T25 torx screwdriver. I also moved various hoses aside. I only really had to remove the upper coolant hose on the driver's side of the water pump. This can be done with minimal coolant loss if you're careful. A few small misc. hoses and b**** clips later, and you'll have a clear view of the water pump area.
Break the water pump pulley bolts (T40 torx) loose with the serpentine belt still on. Then use your 30 mm wrench with the closed end on the tensioner bolt to put slack in the belt and remove it from the water pump pulley. Now you can remove the pulley and water pump (requires inverted Torx).
At this point, you should have a clear view of the intake socket.
Removing this part is probably the most difficult aspect of this job. Unless you have or can make a special tool, you will need to use the brute force method to remove it. I found it easiest to use a flat head screwdriver with a hammer to split the socket on it's bottom half. It should break apart fairly easily with minimal fear of marring the aluminum housing. Eventually, you should be able to pull it right out.
This is what mine looked like once removed.
At this point, I realized that the aluminum intake socket might not be the best idea to install in the event that I need to replace the thermostat again, however, I didn't have a different one. I'll just have to try to acquire the special tool when that happens. Here's a picture of the aluminum intake socket.
The thermostat is right behind the intake socket and can be pulled out by hand.
**As a side note, I didn't really think the thermostat seemed so bad when I took it out, but I did notice that the temperature sensitive part of it was a bit loose inside compared to the new one. Also, the water pump I pulled seemed to be in OK shape, but it did have some play in it compared to the new one. I feel much more comfortable having a new one in there. **
When installing the new intake socket, Porsche recommends using a special lube and diluting that 50:50 with water. I found this also useful for installing the thermostat. Both the intake socket and thermostat are able to be pushed in by hand.
The rest of the installation of new parts is the reverse of the removal.
However, if you're replacing the serpentine belt (which is a good idea to do if you're around 80k miles like I was) I have a few tips. The belt routing is fairly complicated and requires disconnecting two hoses and one bracket. The hoses have those stupid quick connects on them which are extremely difficult to disconnect by hand, and the small bracket requires the removal of a T30 security torx bit.
I will post a few more pictures detailing locations of certain parts at some point... feel free to add your input here!