自美国从阿富汗撤军之后，阿富汗境内的安全状况一落千丈，塔利班迅速控制了阿富汗80%的地区。我的阿富汗向导以及友人都对外发出了危险警告，此时形势不单单是对外国人，即便是对阿富汗本国国民也非常严峻，大量阿富汗人自塔利班控制区向边远或山区地带迁徙。 这一幕是我预料之内的，自美国宣布将会从阿富汗撤军之后，我就知道塔利班一定会重新得权。 阿富汗是我一直心心念念想去的地方，因此赶在美军离开之前，我飞到了喀布尔。 "I looked westward and marveled that, somewhere over those mountains, Kabul still existed. It really existed, not just as an old memory, or as the heading of an AP story, or on page 15 of the San Francisco Chronicle" -- Khaled Hosseini, Author of "The Kite Runner" & "A Thousand Splendid Suns". "我向西望去，开始惊叹，在群山环绕之间，喀布尔依然在那里。它依然真实存在，而不仅仅是个发黄的记忆，美联社头条上的新闻，或者旧金山纪事报15页上的故事。" -- Khaled Hosseini
畅销书“喀布尔书商"是挪威女记者Åsne Seierstad根据她自身经历完成的一本书。她曾经应喀布尔的一名书商Shah Muhammad Rais邀请，在他家住了三个月。这个难逢的机遇给了Åsne一个异常独特的视角来观察并学习阿富汗的文化，历史，政治，家庭观念，风土人情，最为重要的是，在妇女权益方面的切身体验。 新书面世之后，Shah Muhammad大为光火。他指责Åsne的写作不实，并且滥用了他和他家人的信任和友情。他的第二任妻子在挪威将Åsne诉诸法庭，控告Åsne歪曲事实并抹黑他家人，而Shah本人则发表了他自己写的一本书，叫"Once Upon a Time There Was a Bookseller of Kabul"作为他的对抗性版本。 我读过这本书，并对书中所写的每个人物都很着迷，尤其是主角Sultan Khan，其实就是Shah M Rais. 我不认为他被抹黑了，事实上，我认为Åsne用了大量的笔墨来描写他的善良和勇敢，但他和我们所有人一样，是复杂的，多面的，是有缺点的，甚至有时是自相矛盾的。 我的喀布尔第一站，就是去拜访Shah Muhammad的书店，和这位传奇书商。
"There are the two Buddhas of the Bamiyan Valley, carved out of the rock 2000 years before. Tariq says that they make him feel so small. Then, Babi takes them to the winding, narrow, dimly lit staircase also carved by the monks in and around the huge statues. He teaches them as they walk that Bamiyan had once been a thriving Buddhist center until it had fallen under Islamic rule in the ninth century. The monks had carved caves into the rock as well to use as living quarters and then had painted beautiful frescos along the walls and the roofs of their caves. At one point, 5000 monks had lived as hermits in these caves. When they arrive at the top of one of the statue’s head, they stop and look out over the valley. They can see all the fields planted below and people working in the fields and animals grazing in pastures. Laila is awed by the silence from the top of the statue, and Babi agrees that the silence is what he always remembers. He points out that some things he can teach the children, some they can learn from books, but there are some things that they just have to see and feel." -- "A Thousand Splendid Suns", Khaled Hosseini 塔利班在2001年陷落前的六个月，不顾全世界各国，以及联合国教科文组织的苦苦请求，执意将两座大佛炸毁。日本曾经提出，愿意捐巨资请塔利班留住大佛，或者出钱出力将两座大佛切割搬去日本，被塔利班政府拒绝。两千多年的文化遗产，被炸弹夷为废墟。 我问我的向导，当塔利班把佛像炸毁的时候，村民们是什么感觉，气愤吗? 他说，大多数人并没有，因为已经被塔利班洗脑了，他自己当年也是其中之一。 是多年以后，当他看到全世界人们对这些佛像的重视及纪念，才意识到这是多么珍贵的历史遗产，已经被永久地毁灭了。
巴布尔花园是坐落在喀布尔城中的一座占地11公顷的公园绿地，是莫卧儿第一代国王巴布尔为家族建造的休闲娱乐场所。 后来，他的孙子沙贾汗在这里建造了一座白色大理石清真寺。沙贾汗是谁大家还记得吗？对的，就是印度泰姬陵的建造者，虽然这里的建筑规模要小得多，但可以清楚地看到他喜好的风格，在颜色干净的石头上呈现清晰明快的雕刻。 这个花园在阿富汗内战时期遭到严重损毁，2002年以后才得到缓慢的重新修复。 "Whatever countries I conquer in the world, I would never forget your beautiful gardens. Whenever I remember the summits of your beautiful mountains, I forget the greatness of the Delhi throne." -- Ahmed Shah Durrani 无论我征服世界多少国家， 都无法忘却你美丽的花园。 一想起你延绵壮丽的山峰， 德里的权位瞬间失去意义。
直到出发之前，我都不知道我是否能顺利进入坎大哈。 坎大哈，阿富汗第二大城，杜兰尼国王在这里创建阿富汗王朝。自1995年，这里更是塔利班崛起之地，并一直是塔利班大本营。 很多资深的旅行届前辈告诉我那里太危险，西方旅行者一直是塔利班攻击或绑架的对象，朋友的朋友就曾经在那里遭遇埋伏和突袭。 但我知道，这次不去，以后很长时间大概都更去不了了。咨询了我的向导的意见之后，我们把行程从两天一夜改称当天往返，还是去了。 以下是我英文游记的片断，懒得翻了。 One of the holiest sites in Afghanistan, Shrine of the Cloak, has housed the cloak of Islamic Prophet Mohammad since it was acquired by Ahmad Shah Durrani (the founder of Afghanistan state. I quoted his poem in my Garden of Babur post earlier) through treaty (or trick), and brought back to Kandahar. Thursday was Lady''s only day. No men was allowed in. By the leads of a female police officer, we shuffled through crowds and had a brief view inside the shrine. The cloak has been safely and securely guarded by the same family for the last 250 years, only to be brought out and seen by some famous people. Since I was not with the Afghanistan president, nor with the Taliban leader Mullah Mohammed Omar, the cloak was not brought out for my viewing
坎大哈是阿富汗国父，杜兰尼的出声地，也是他死后安葬的地方。 阿富汗的千元钞上的图像就是他的陵寝。 This is the resting place of Ahmad Shah Durrani, the founder of the Durrani Empire and is regarded as the founder of the modern state of Afghanistan. He has once pushed his territories to the east until India, west towards Iran, and north to Bukhara of Turkistan (where he acquired Prophet Muhammad's cloak). I'm sure he was a great king and a fierce conqueror, but the reason that he's significant to me personally, was because he's poetic. The poems touch my heart and resonate with my feelings. "By blood, we are immersed in love of you. The youth lose their heads for your sake. I come to you and my heart finds rest. Away from you, grief clings to my heart like a snake. I forget the throne of Delhi, when I remember the mountain tops of my beautiful Pakhtunkhwa. If I must choose between the world and you, I shall not hesitate to claim your barren deserts as my own." "Love of a Nation", by Ahmad Shah Durrani
坎大哈的”红色清真寺“。名为红色，其实只在圆顶上有一点点红而已，这个清真寺主要颜色是蓝色和奶白色。 据说坎大哈在塔利班占领期间，塔利班一号头目奥马尔经常来这里祈祷，本拉登曾经一度藏身坎大哈，也曾经在这里祈祷。(对了，我在巴基斯坦曾经探访过本拉登最后藏身并被击杀之地，还在考虑要不要贴). 我的向导开玩笑对我说，我拍照踩着的地砖，有可能就是奥马尔或本拉登曾经跪祷过的地方呢。 This mosque is name "Red Mosque", but only little red color was found on the dome, the majority of the structure were cream and blue. Reportedly when Taliban established their base in Kandahar, their leader Mullah Mohammed Omar used to pray here. My guide half jokingly said to me, the floor where I stood to take pictures may once be the same spot Omar used to pray at, or even be Osmar Bin Laden himself.
人类历史上曾经有过很多次惨绝人寰的杀戮，但很少能比得过13世纪蒙古帝国对外的征战。据估计，当时世界大约11%的人口死于突厥-蒙古的侵略战争中。如果这个估算是正确的话，那这绝对是人类史上最大规模的屠杀了。 Shahr e Gholghola，意思为"嘶喊之城"， 就是阿富汗巴米扬地区的一个屠城之例。1221年，成吉思汗率蒙古大军把整个城池杀得片甲不留，为他之前在这里战死的孙子报仇。 而这个名字 ，嘶喊之城，就形象地表述了当时绝望频死的人民发出的最后的吼声。 一千年之后，当我站在城池之巅，蒙古王朝今安在? 战争，破坏，和屠杀都不能让你在历史的长河中变成永恒。 遗憾的是，人类至今没能意识到这点。 There are some deadliest massacres during human history of warfares, but very few could surpass the killings and destructions done through the Mongol Conquest during 13th century. It has been estimated that approximately 11% of the world's population was killed either during or immediately after the Turco-Mongol invasions. If the calculations are accurate, the events would be the deadliest acts of mass killings in human history. Shahr e Gholghola, the City of Screams, was one example in Bamyan, Afghanistan. In 1221, Genghis Khan conquered this city and killed every living being in revenge of the death of his favorite grandson, who was killed by local people in resistance of his earlier conquest battle. The name, City of Screams, vividly depicted the sound made out of the hopeless dying victims. A thousand years later here I am standing atop -- Where is Mongol Empire? None of the war, the destruction, the killings would guarantee you an eternal place in human history. Sadly human beings would never remember and understand this simple fact.
喀布尔的最后一位箱式摄影师。 Perhaps the last box camera in Kabul. I had the pleasure to meet the photographer and his wife in their modest but cozy home. Box camera is a wooden structure that captures and develops the film under manual operation. The photographer has retired and his supplies are aged or close to expire. He himself was infected by Covid-19 early this year but fortunately has recovered since. I had a lovely chat with his wife Bibi Raeza, who was his cousin and only 14 when she married him. Box camera photography may extinct one day, but the history and the images it created will forever remain.
I''ve had many people asking me, "How is Afghanistan?". It''s a question I asked myself over and over too. Did I see a full picture of Afghanistan? No, I didn''t. I was traveling in the safe hands of Noor and Sakhi''s. I didn''t go to the rural areas, I didn''t go to where Taliban or other warlords are still present, I didn''t attempt to do anything that''s out of ordinary (I did drive quite a bit, for which I was extremely grateful). Did I see a genuine Afghanistan? Yes, I think I did. I experienced the true hospitality from many Afghanistan people; I saw real pain, poverty, and sufferings; I marveled at the astonishing natural and man-made wonders of Afghanistan, and I shared laughter and tears for this country. Afghanistan was stricken by war and violence in the past, but at the same time, there are millions of hardworking people trying to make and live a semblance of a normal life. I came to see the beautiful country beyond the breaking headlines of the newspaper, and I found it, though it''s layered by some stories of heartbreaking history and presence. Afghanistan, for you, a thousand times over.
这一幕是我预料之内的，自美国宣布将会从阿富汗撤军之后，我就知道塔利班一定会重新得权。
阿富汗是我一直心心念念想去的地方，因此赶在美军离开之前，我飞到了喀布尔。
"I looked westward and marveled that, somewhere over those mountains, Kabul still existed. It really existed, not just as an old memory, or as the heading of an AP story, or on page 15 of the San Francisco Chronicle" -- Khaled Hosseini, Author of "The Kite Runner" & "A Thousand Splendid Suns".
"我向西望去，开始惊叹，在群山环绕之间，喀布尔依然在那里。它依然真实存在，而不仅仅是个发黄的记忆，美联社头条上的新闻，或者旧金山纪事报15页上的故事。" -- Khaled Hosseini
新书面世之后，Shah Muhammad大为光火。他指责Åsne的写作不实，并且滥用了他和他家人的信任和友情。他的第二任妻子在挪威将Åsne诉诸法庭，控告Åsne歪曲事实并抹黑他家人，而Shah本人则发表了他自己写的一本书，叫"Once Upon a Time There Was a Bookseller of Kabul"作为他的对抗性版本。
我读过这本书，并对书中所写的每个人物都很着迷，尤其是主角Sultan Khan，其实就是Shah M Rais. 我不认为他被抹黑了，事实上，我认为Åsne用了大量的笔墨来描写他的善良和勇敢，但他和我们所有人一样，是复杂的，多面的，是有缺点的，甚至有时是自相矛盾的。
我的喀布尔第一站，就是去拜访Shah Muhammad的书店，和这位传奇书商。
Mariam是Khaled Hosseini的著作"灿烂千阳" (A Thousand Splendid Suns)里面的两位主角之一。她是个harami, 就是父母没有结婚的私生子，来自阿富汗的第三大城 Herat. 她16岁就嫁给了喀布尔的一名50岁的鳏夫。当她来到喀布尔著名的Chicken Street, 不禁天真地如此问道。
Chicken Street是喀布尔的一条商业街，狭窄而热闹，两旁遍布古董店，首饰店，地摊店，服装店，小吃店等等，还有目不暇给的摊贩，以及人群中穿梭的儿童乞丐。
Mariam当然不知道，Chicken Street什么都卖，就是没有chicken.
Burqa已经被发明了几百年了，它曾经一度是上流社会的认证，只有达官贵人家的妇女才能穿，是身份的象征。
后来在1959年，当时的首相, Prince Daoud立法取消了burqa. 那时候，喀布尔的街道上，流行的是妇女穿大衣，戴墨镜，穿高跟鞋，上流社会摒弃了burqa, 而burqa变成了穷人的名片。在1961年，阿富汗更是通过立法禁止公务员穿着burqa. 那时的阿富汗大概是它最为开放的年代。
可惜，很快内战开始了，妇女们开始又捡起穿burqa的传统。当塔利班掌权，所有的妇女都被立法规定必须穿戴burqa, 否则会被原教旨主义者鞭打，甚至送进监狱。
塔利班离开后，妇女们又开始不用穿burqa了，但这种日子是不是又要到头了呢？
-- "A Thousand Splendid Suns", Khaled Hosseini
塔利班在2001年陷落前的六个月，不顾全世界各国，以及联合国教科文组织的苦苦请求，执意将两座大佛炸毁。日本曾经提出，愿意捐巨资请塔利班留住大佛，或者出钱出力将两座大佛切割搬去日本，被塔利班政府拒绝。两千多年的文化遗产，被炸弹夷为废墟。
我问我的向导，当塔利班把佛像炸毁的时候，村民们是什么感觉，气愤吗? 他说，大多数人并没有，因为已经被塔利班洗脑了，他自己当年也是其中之一。
是多年以后，当他看到全世界人们对这些佛像的重视及纪念，才意识到这是多么珍贵的历史遗产，已经被永久地毁灭了。
Band-e-Amir，是一组坐落在兴都库什山脉间的澄澈的，绿宝石一样的天然湖泊。周边有错落纷呈的巨石环绕，像是Grand Canyon of Afghanistan.
这里的景色不输任何欧洲，美洲，澳洲的国家公园，但是世人往往只知道Banff, Plitvice, 有几个人知道阿富汗有如此仙境的所在？
我不禁思考，也许，被当年的民兵(Mujahedeen)洗劫并不是件坏事，至少那些东西仅仅送还被偷，被抢，被运走，被卖掉，大部分文物如今都在世界各地的收藏家手里，他们虽然远离故土，但他们是安全的。
这一切到了塔利班上台掌权就完全不同了。
塔利班是一种意识形态，他们对非伊斯兰的文化是遵循只有毁灭这一条路的宗旨，他们对付文物的办法是是子弹和斧子。他们将所有能砸烂的都砸烂了，包括博物馆的建筑物，而数千年的文明他们只用了半天就毁掉一切。
我参观的博物馆是后来重建的，其中两张明信片的照片，一张是民兵在洗劫博物馆后坐在厅里抽烟，另一张是塔利班将整个博物馆变成废墟。重建的博物馆大致还可以看出原先的设计。
后来，他的孙子沙贾汗在这里建造了一座白色大理石清真寺。沙贾汗是谁大家还记得吗？对的，就是印度泰姬陵的建造者，虽然这里的建筑规模要小得多，但可以清楚地看到他喜好的风格，在颜色干净的石头上呈现清晰明快的雕刻。
这个花园在阿富汗内战时期遭到严重损毁，2002年以后才得到缓慢的重新修复。
"Whatever countries I conquer in the world, I would never forget your beautiful gardens. Whenever I remember the summits of your beautiful mountains, I forget the greatness of the Delhi throne."
-- Ahmed Shah Durrani
无论我征服世界多少国家， 都无法忘却你美丽的花园。 一想起你延绵壮丽的山峰， 德里的权位瞬间失去意义。
据说这里是先知穆罕默德的圣衣被运送到坎大哈之前停留过的地方，而阿里曾在这里朝拜过先知的圣衣。
传说只是传说，这里是喀布尔人民最经常祷告的地点之一，可以想见平日的人山人海。
2018年3月21日，就在什叶派教民庆祝新年之际，这里被自杀式袭击者用炸弹攻击，33人死亡，65人受伤。
坎大哈，阿富汗第二大城，杜兰尼国王在这里创建阿富汗王朝。自1995年，这里更是塔利班崛起之地，并一直是塔利班大本营。
很多资深的旅行届前辈告诉我那里太危险，西方旅行者一直是塔利班攻击或绑架的对象，朋友的朋友就曾经在那里遭遇埋伏和突袭。
但我知道，这次不去，以后很长时间大概都更去不了了。咨询了我的向导的意见之后，我们把行程从两天一夜改称当天往返，还是去了。
以下是我英文游记的片断，懒得翻了。
One of the holiest sites in Afghanistan, Shrine of the Cloak, has housed the cloak of Islamic Prophet Mohammad since it was acquired by Ahmad Shah Durrani (the founder of Afghanistan state. I quoted his poem in my Garden of Babur post earlier) through treaty (or trick), and brought back to Kandahar.
Thursday was Lady''s only day. No men was allowed in. By the leads of a female police officer, we shuffled through crowds and had a brief view inside the shrine.
The cloak has been safely and securely guarded by the same family for the last 250 years, only to be brought out and seen by some famous people. Since I was not with the Afghanistan president, nor with the Taliban leader Mullah Mohammed Omar, the cloak was not brought out for my viewing
This is the resting place of Ahmad Shah Durrani, the founder of the Durrani Empire and is regarded as the founder of the modern state of Afghanistan.
He has once pushed his territories to the east until India, west towards Iran, and north to Bukhara of Turkistan (where he acquired Prophet Muhammad's cloak).
I'm sure he was a great king and a fierce conqueror, but the reason that he's significant to me personally, was because he's poetic. The poems touch my heart and resonate with my feelings.
"By blood, we are immersed in love of you. The youth lose their heads for your sake. I come to you and my heart finds rest. Away from you, grief clings to my heart like a snake. I forget the throne of Delhi, when I remember the mountain tops of my beautiful Pakhtunkhwa. If I must choose between the world and you, I shall not hesitate to claim your barren deserts as my own."
"Love of a Nation", by Ahmad Shah Durrani
据说坎大哈在塔利班占领期间，塔利班一号头目奥马尔经常来这里祈祷，本拉登曾经一度藏身坎大哈，也曾经在这里祈祷。(对了，我在巴基斯坦曾经探访过本拉登最后藏身并被击杀之地，还在考虑要不要贴).
我的向导开玩笑对我说，我拍照踩着的地砖，有可能就是奥马尔或本拉登曾经跪祷过的地方呢。
This mosque is name "Red Mosque", but only little red color was found on the dome, the majority of the structure were cream and blue. Reportedly when Taliban established their base in Kandahar, their leader Mullah Mohammed Omar used to pray here. My guide half jokingly said to me, the floor where I stood to take pictures may once be the same spot Omar used to pray at, or even be Osmar Bin Laden himself.
穿戴burqa的本来目的是掩盖自己，不吸引他人的目光和注意力。但是我想，如果在美国，应该是穿戴burqa的人才会吸引更多的注意力吧? 因为与大多数人不同，总是更为突出，所以在一个burqa不是普遍服饰的地方，它是不能完成它的原始使命 --- 遮掩自己以不被注意的。
其实，什么样的服饰会在人群中stand out, 这是跟social norm有关的课题。
那些雕刻和壁画残留的并不多，但我还是很开心跟他来到这里，因为我经过了半山腰一些村落，遇到很多小朋友。我用随身携带的照片打印机把给他们拍的照片打印出来送给他们，看着他们脸上的笑容，真是令人无与伦比地开心!
Shahr e Gholghola，意思为"嘶喊之城"， 就是阿富汗巴米扬地区的一个屠城之例。1221年，成吉思汗率蒙古大军把整个城池杀得片甲不留，为他之前在这里战死的孙子报仇。
而这个名字 ，嘶喊之城，就形象地表述了当时绝望频死的人民发出的最后的吼声。
一千年之后，当我站在城池之巅，蒙古王朝今安在? 战争，破坏，和屠杀都不能让你在历史的长河中变成永恒。
遗憾的是，人类至今没能意识到这点。
There are some deadliest massacres during human history of warfares, but very few could surpass the killings and destructions done through the Mongol Conquest during 13th century. It has been estimated that approximately 11% of the world's population was killed either during or immediately after the Turco-Mongol invasions. If the calculations are accurate, the events would be the deadliest acts of mass killings in human history.
Shahr e Gholghola, the City of Screams, was one example in Bamyan, Afghanistan. In 1221, Genghis Khan conquered this city and killed every living being in revenge of the death of his favorite grandson, who was killed by local people in resistance of his earlier conquest battle.
The name, City of Screams, vividly depicted the sound made out of the hopeless dying victims. A thousand years later here I am standing atop -- Where is Mongol Empire? None of the war, the destruction, the killings would guarantee you an eternal place in human history.
Sadly human beings would never remember and understand this simple fact.
书里Babi指着远方的Shahr-e Zohak说，这里是阿富汗人民建造的抵御成吉思汗的孙子的侵略的，结果最终他们被成吉思汗本人占领并屠杀了。 给他们开车的出租车司机说:"这就是我们国家的故事，侵略者一个接一个....马其顿人，萨珊人，阿拉伯人，蒙古人，苏联人...但是我们就像这饱经风霜的城墙，依然站在这儿。残旧，破损，但依然挺立"。
感谢我的向导带我来到这里，让我能够亲眼见到书中读过的地方。
Perhaps the last box camera in Kabul. I had the pleasure to meet the photographer and his wife in their modest but cozy home.
Box camera is a wooden structure that captures and develops the film under manual operation. The photographer has retired and his supplies are aged or close to expire. He himself was infected by Covid-19 early this year but fortunately has recovered since.
I had a lovely chat with his wife Bibi Raeza, who was his cousin and only 14 when she married him. Box camera photography may extinct one day, but the history and the images it created will forever remain.
Did I see a full picture of Afghanistan? No, I didn''t. I was traveling in the safe hands of Noor and Sakhi''s. I didn''t go to the rural areas, I didn''t go to where Taliban or other warlords are still present, I didn''t attempt to do anything that''s out of ordinary (I did drive quite a bit, for which I was extremely grateful).
Did I see a genuine Afghanistan? Yes, I think I did. I experienced the true hospitality from many Afghanistan people; I saw real pain, poverty, and sufferings; I marveled at the astonishing natural and man-made wonders of Afghanistan, and I shared laughter and tears for this country.
Afghanistan was stricken by war and violence in the past, but at the same time, there are millions of hardworking people trying to make and live a semblance of a normal life.
I came to see the beautiful country beyond the breaking headlines of the newspaper, and I found it, though it''s layered by some stories of heartbreaking history and presence.
Afghanistan, for you, a thousand times over.
好感动！Bless这些孩子都能健康成长，这些无辜的平民都能平平安安。楼主mm的这次旅行一定是终生难忘！绝大多数人都没有这个心态和勇气！
re ! thanks for sharing such a unique experience !
这是那个千哭之城？就是被蒙古大军屠城的地方？
话说看那些历史记载，简直的了，全城都被屠杀啊，因为成吉思汗的大军攻城太久，或者是因为他女儿的丈夫战死了（还有说是他孙子？），结果为了报复，开城后所有人都杀死。 说是成吉思汗女儿伤心自己丈夫战死，就报复全城，下令把城里所有人分成三堆，男女老少，小孩子都不放过，全部屠杀干净。想想父母们或许活着看着自己的孩子们被一个个杀死。 人类太残忍。
这些孩子的长相有蒙古人和当地混血的特征，大概就是阿富汗境内的某一族人（忘了名字了）， 说是蒙古大军留下来的混种。
你说的对，这些孩子应该是Hazara, 我的向导也是hazara, 他们长得最像东亚人。
阿富汗的另外两大人种(还是叫民族)是Pashtun和Tajik, 当然还有其它的，但人数上最大的族群就是以上三种。
在阿富汗待了一段时间就能大概分辨出来了。我特别喜欢在路上指着随便什么人猜他们的族群，然后问向导我猜得对不对，到后来基本八九不离十。
Pashtun是最黑的，跟巴基斯坦那边的很像。Tajik是比较像高加索那边的，比较白，鼻梁高。而Hazara就是比较像东亚，蒙古那边的，跟华人最接近。
知道这段历史，才会对这个地方有所感触，否则这就是一段破墙。
人类可以创造出最美妙的东西，也可以摧毁最绚烂的文明。多么ironic!
没错，如果没有人文历史背景为依托，那真就是好山好水好简单了。 不过没想到阿富汗有那么美的湖区，照片上看湖水颜色真和baff之类的差不多了，好可惜啊，处在阿富汗这样的国度，大多数世人都无法access到它的美丽了。 哭城，光看文字的介绍是一个感觉，看到照片，或者亲临其地，那又是另一个感觉了。 sigh，历史的长河啊。
同感 太喜欢这样的游记了，对我也是一种学习
很快，我就收到一名刚刚离开喀布尔的好友的私信。他是一名美国的医学院学生，七月份刚刚赶在塔利班尚未全线战领阿富汗之前去那里旅行了两个星期。他在临行前曾经向我请教过签证问题，也表达了自己的担忧。他的阿富汗之行基本顺利，在那里结交了新的朋友。
今天的短信里他向我讲述了他的host family无法及时离开阿富汗，现在已经被困在喀布尔了。截屏里我看到他的朋友对未来命运的无比担心，而此刻，我们都帮不上什么忙。前方的车轮滚滚，我们仿佛看见，一出悲剧正上演...
好美的地方👍
Yes, it was THAT legendary Noor. We talked about Drew a lot when he hosted me there.
见谅，图删
lz这真是灵魂之旅啊。羡慕，佩服。